Redux is a most appropriate name for this new restaurant, as it is a Latin word that means, “brought back” or “revisited.” Chef/owner Robert Ubhaus has opened his new restaurant a mere half a block away from his previous restaurants, Resto and Rob’s Bistro. After looking throughout New Jersey for the right location the “food gods” lured him back to Madison, and we could not be happier.
Redux features Modern-American small plates, using local ingredients as the season allows. There are two dining options: a 32-seat main dining room or the chef’s counter in the kitchen that seats 10. At a recent visit, we sat at the counter which allowed us to chat with chef Rob, sous chef Michael Martello Jr and garden manger Anthony Agner. We interacted with them, watched them cook and serve our meal as well as prepare other dinner orders, and had an insiders’ view of the kitchen’s workings. The menu contains meats, cheeses, bites, small plates and larger plates, all of which are meant for sharing.
Knowing there was much more food to come we refrained from ordering a second portion of the luxurious and addictive, thick applewood house-cured bacon, which is baked for 24 hours. Equally impressive, was a dish we had in the Jewish section of Rome, baby artichokes were sprinkled with chives, parsley, thyme and rosemary and then deep fried till crisp. We swiped them through a fantastic balsamic and saffron mascarpone mousse. It was as delicious as it sounds. Chef Rob’s creativity was evident in roasted beet and spinach, encased in a rice paper spring roll wrapper, and plated with candied pecans and a bleu cheese mousse; a distinctive app.
One of the highlights of sitting in the kitchen was watching chef Rob use a torch to melt Saint Andre cheese over wedges of potato. These disco fries were offered with a rich veal stock; a most satisfying dish. Another plus with our location was that it was easy to teasingly ask the chef to squirt the bright smoked-corn puree accompanying the salmon into our mouths. He would not do this, but did give us some on a tasting spoon. This smooth, smoky, yellow sauce, as well as the accompanying acidic tomato panzanella, paired beautifully with the salmon and all the ingredients formed a colorful and multi-flavored entrée.
Not only refreshing, but also a palate cleanser of caramelized pineapple ice cream came as a sandwich on vanilla bean, pink peppercorn, butter cookies. Puff pastry encased fresh peaches in a crostada; both worthy desserts.
A rooster theme, with the rooster being created with the letter R for Rob, is seen throughout the restaurant. Ball jars are used for water, stemless glasses hold wine and the glass covered counter top in the kitchen is made from a reclaimed barn door.
Redux is open Wednesday through Monday for dinner. When making a reservation, let them know where you would like to sit. Both the dining room and the chef’s counter serve the same menu. Chef Rob’s dedication to quality ingredients beautifully prepared and presented are to be commended.
The Market at Redux, next door to the restaurant, is a specialty and prepared foods retail shop that offers cheese, charcuterie, house-made soups, prepared foods, a butcher case and much more. Off-premise catering and party platters are available with all of the food prepared by Chef Rob and his team. The Market will also will carry the bacon which will have the Safersteins visiting Madison often.
Redux: Modern American Cuisine
The Restaurant & the Market at Redux
3 Central Avenue
Roasted beet and spinach wrap with bleu cheese mousse.Click here to leave a comment