Palmyra isn’t exactly home to a burgeoning restaurant scene. In fact, the Burlington County town might be better known for the Tacony-Palmyra Bridge that connects it to Pennsylvania than for its fine dining establishments. But that didn’t stop chef-owners Ross Scofield and Danielle Coulter from opening a farm-to-table restaurant called the Farmacy there in August.
The couple, who live in nearby Cinnaminson, also own the Farmacy in Philadelphia, a popular brunch destination that opened in 2013. The Farmacy in Palmyra is the second location, and has added a focus on savory lunch and dinner options.
I stopped in for dinner last month, the week before the restaurant switched over to its fall menu. The Farmacy is located across the street from an athletic field, and there was ample street parking on the weekday evening I visited. Located in a former luncheonette, the interior of the Farmacy features teal-colored walls, original barstool seating at the counter of an open kitchen, as well as several tables.
For starters, we tried the fried oysters, served with a remoulade sauce and topped with microgreens. They were fresh and crispy, though I would have liked a little more sauce with them. We also ordered the fried Brussels sprouts. Seasoned with smoked paprika and topped with Parmesan, even a vegetable-hater would enjoy them.
For dinner, I ordered the salmon with crab hash consisting of fingerling potatoes, mushrooms and crabmeat and topped with a thick, sweet and salty unagi sauce. Though the hash was flavorful and the salmon was perfectly cooked—still juicy and not dry and flaky—I would have preferred a slightly crispier skin. My dining companion ordered the steak frites. Despite asking for the steak to be cooked medium rare, it came out brown and tough, and the fries were a bit too oily. (The deep fryers are located in an open kitchen, and the smell of oil lingered from my jacket and hair long after we left.)
The service was attentive and friendly; our waitress was Scofield’s mother, who boasted about how proud she was of her son.
On a return visit, I’d be eager to explore other areas of the menu. The “Greens and Grains” section includes fresh salads such as a Brussels Sprout Caesar and an Apples & Chèvre salad with red leaf frisée and green gem lettuce. The lobster mac n’ cheese looks delightfully decadent, and the duck breast with dried cherries and Madeira-braised red cabbage seems like a wonderful seasonal addition.
And then there’s the brunch menu, offered Friday through Sunday from 9 am to 2 pm, that includes crowd favorites like shrimp and grits, chicken and biscuits, and huevos rancheros. The Farmacy built its reputation on brunch, and surely the dishes are just as good on this side of the Delaware.
The Farmacy, 307 W. Broad Street, Palmyra; 856-543-4411; BYO. Open Tuesday-Sunday.Click here to leave a comment